Quote from arco :

Well, you must have incredible fast reaction then, because from the attached graph you can see the difference in speed. Yours in red.

I actually think he is telling the truth. From the graph you posted it is clearly seen that your (AC) clutch operations are all the same, while his differ in times, as far as I know you can't make a macro that varies the time of buttons being pressed randonly on the fly

Quote from marzman :

Since when is a cheap wheel with low wheel rotation an advantage against a G25?

I doubt you will ask that question if you had a G25 or used it properly (meaning 720/900* rotation, manual clutch and H-shifter)

Countersteering without a need to change positioning of your hands on the wheel is easier,
Using paddle shifting is a lot easier than a shifter, you have tiny chances to mis-shift unlike with H-Shifter

thats just the most obvious reasons, there are some more

Smashing everything up is last thing you should do...
Is it acting like that in LFS only or in other games too?
Did you first installed profiler and only AFTER plugged wheel's USB cable into PC?

If its under warranty and and acts like that in all games I'd suggest you to contact Logitech for a replacement

Big +1 from me. Going through a F12 menu during the race is as uncomfortable as danerous sometimes, should be useful

Quote from Glenn67 :

Currently it is not good because if anyone uses manual clutch (G25 users) they will be under constant suspision of using a macro to gain advantage.

Quote from [DUcK] :

Yeah I guess.
As for knowing about pedal clutch, it wouldn't be too hard to tell. Most people would be RF braking, if not they will rev match and put it in gear, and wont be using a clutch on downshift.

Also, for example in HL charts you can see who uses CL (Clutch axis=pedal) and who's not

Did you calibrated your Wheel ingame by turning it from lock to lock?

a dds folder from a fresh install of LFS maybe

Quote from Chaos :

hmmm, and what about using manual clutch, with a pedal, buttons to shift (not H-gate shifter) and having the clutch calibrated so, that it disengages almost instantly when you touch the pedal? I guess that with a little practice its possible to shift even faster than with the script...
is this also cheating?

Its not as easy as it sounds though. It takes quite a lot of practice to learn to time all the actions well.

You can do that already. Such things like anti-roll bars, brake balance are tunable through F10-F11 menus. Only on race cars though.

A pad is a good portative device to use with LFS. I used Logitech RumblePad quite succesfully in time. Maybe thats a good alternative for you?

Quote from zeugnimod :

Finished, too.

Tbh, I found it quite easy.

Didn't take me more than 5 tries for any level.

Indeed Quite easy And short

Maybe Joy2Key can do the trick so the system will read axis movements as a press of a button you can assign ingame after?

Quote from NathanRx-7 :

Alot of people have said that the shifter is loose, virtually none-resistant and flimsy... but mine is a day old and tbh there is a considerable amount of resistance, and it isnt loose at all.
I think maybe they did improve it.

To know what model your wheel is, read the code written on the pack with CD with drivers. Mine is Rev 101. It doesn't feel a lot like a real cars shifter, but a great piece of unit definetly

Modded both of my wheels within warranty:
1st one was FF EX, I took it apart completly and filled the gaps around the potentiometer to improve accurancy.

2nd and current one is G25. Applied Easy H'n'T mod to it

Can anyone make a preview (youtube vid if possible) to show how this works, please?

Heh, nice Definetly looks better than a wireless pad attached

Commonly known that FFB starts to act more liniary after 101% of force. Thats a Profiler bug AFAIK

Quote from andRo. :

D Loved the music, can you tell me what is the songs name?

+1

If you don't want to overtighten your wheel's clamps, but still keep it steadily clamped, an easy solution would be to put a stripe of ducktabe (the rubbered one) on the clamps. Works nicely for me

Quote from JO53PHS :

Who said you can't put a fire out with Nitrous Oxide?

Technically, N2O has more oxigen than air, so the only way you'll be able to put the fire out will be a big exsplosion....but it will take you out either

It does take some time to get used to, but when you will, playing without FFB will be like playing without sound Use the wiki guide for the wheel to set it up properly and off you go

Quote from Dac :

where it says Throttle / Brake Axis, its set on 'seperate'.

Thats ingame, right?

You also need to do what Fabri said in Gaming device's properties

Quote from diNOSaur :

What has changed in XFG physics?
Just wondering why hotlaps are removed...

New interior alters physics calculation

Quote from volvopetter :

I'm just frustrated, I probably get used to it.
And you say that I spit people in their faces, I know they have done a lot of work to make this possible, but I just say my opinion. If some people do something you don't like, you keep your mouth shut, or do you say it to them?

depends....
And even when I decide to tell them, I usually appriciate the amount of work they've done regardless if I like it or not and do it in a polite manner

Quote from swisscosmo :

ok so i would be able to take it off it less than a minute?

About 20 sec for me to (de)attach my G25 and a shifter to desk without rush